Monday, May 6, 2013

McCall 764: The Birdie Blouse


I'm super excited to share my latest 1940 McCall make!  I want to introduce you to McCall 764 or 'The Birdie Blouse'.  The August 1940 Complete Needlework Catalogue describes McCall 764 in the following way:
McCall 764: Two-toned embroidery offers a charming trim for the sheer blouse of crisp organdy, batiste, fine lawn, dimity or crepe de Chine.  Or lace insertion may be used for an airy effect.

You may notice my almost exact replication of the cover illustration for this blouse. What can I say? Sometimes I love the cover illustrations so much that I want to make the exact same garment!  There is a big difference with this blouse.  Instead of doing embroidery, I used the lace insertion technique to insert a swallow print trim:


You see, I was contacted by Cloth magazine since they were going to include a free gift for readers of this month's issue (issue 18) of a vintage inspired 'swooping swallow' trim--they wanted to know if I would make something from the trim and send them pictures so that they could include in the magazine so readers could get some different ideas of how to use their trim.  Of course I said yes!!! I adore Cloth magazine and their blog (the most fashionable sewing magazine around imho).  I knew I wanted to make something that was completely me....and so I turned to my 1940 McCall patterns for inspiration and doesn't McCall 764 just jump out as the perfect match??

Here's another illustration of McCall 764 from the April 1940 McCall Style News:















I tried two different methods to secure the trim.  The first was to use a hand picked stitch to secure it. The second was to sew the trim down along the small blue border.  This method worked best, and I was able to find the perfect matching blue thread:











The blouse material is a crepe backed satin.  The pattern is brilliantly drafted and includes a front panel of multiple gathered sections, several pin tucks at the shoulder, and again on the sleeve.  The sleeve shape is really interesting and is constructed in three pieces with the trim running down the center, with pin tucks all around.  This leads to a very voluminous sleeve!  The peter pan collar is trimmed with bias binding from the same navy wool that my skirt is made from (the skirt is McCall 3968, my 'Jumpin' the Sharks' skirt, also from 1940). I opted to forego the bow at the collar...I think the blouse has enough going for it already ;-)



The blouse closes by zipper at the side and I really like the length and waistband on the blouse:


There is also a one-button closure at the neckline and a slightly bloused effect at the back:


We took these photos in 'The Meadows', a large park in the center of Edinburgh.  Such stunning scenery!  I also am really happy with my hair, which I had done at my favourite vintage salon in Edinburgh (Miss Dixiebelle).

I'm also very humbled to see my blouse pictured in issue 18 of Cloth Magazine, alongside the amazing By Hand London ladies, and Tilly from Tilly and the Buttons:




How fun is that?  A super big thank you to the folks at Cloth Magazine for including me!

49 comments:

  1. It is SO cute and suits you perfectly!

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  2. Wow, this blouse is perfect Debi...I love it so much! And of course, the swallow trim is adorable on it!

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  3. Oh Debi, just stunning! I don't blame you for wanting to make it just like the cover. That swallow trim is wonderful. Ad a huge congrats on the magazine feature!

    I definitely need to keep my eyes open for more vintage blouse patterns with details like this!

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  4. Ah what a fantastic blouse! I think copying the pattern illustrations is a great idea. I do it quite a bit too - or as much as I can. Such good ideas there.
    I made up the pattern you sent me too - the top as well as the skirt (the brown one) in wool. I shall post more pics when I get my lazy-ass around to it.
    Also - your trench pattern is ready too! I just have to organise myself to post it come pay day!

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    1. YAY! I can't wait to see photos!!

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  5. Debi you did a fantastic job on this blouse and the trim is so wonderful love the whole effect.

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  6. Amazing idea with the blouse and trim - it is perfect! I love the variety of ideas they picture in Cloth for the trim - may have to get some :)

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  7. Woweeee! The complete Call the Midwife picture. I should think its Swooning Swallow rather than swooping. So perfect in every way. I salute you, Debi. And congratulations on the feature. x

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  8. Your blouse is stunning and shows the trim perfectly, the work you've put into it really shows :)

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  9. I can see why you replicated the cover - it is a gorgeous blouse! I love your choice of trim.

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  10. Beautiful! Such a perfect blouse for the scottish spring/early summer. Love the trim-inlays, makes a stunning effect.

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  11. Great blouse! Love the trim, and the pleats at your sleeves and bodice!

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  12. This blouse is so lovely! I love seeing the creations you are making from the 1940 patterns. :]

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  13. Gorgeous! A wonderful blouse with a great backdrop. All suits you to a tee. No wonder Cloth approached you - this is the business! :-)

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  14. Lovely blouse Debi! And huge congratulations on having your lovely creation published!! SO exciting! I shall try and get myself a copy too.

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  15. What a great make. I will have to look into finding the pattern now as it looks fantastic..........fingers crossed. Well done on the hair aswel looks amazing x

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    1. I found the exact same pattern currently available on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/150379443/vintage-1940-mccall-764-sheer-blouse-w?ref=sr_gallery_6&ga_search_query=1940+McCall&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to=GB&ga_search_type=all&ga_facet=1940+McCall

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  16. Ooh, that is just beautiful! Such a lovely shape: I agree the band at the bottom is very nice. No worrying about trying to tuck it in neatly and keep it there!

    The trim is lovely. I don't often buy sewing magazines, but I might have to keep an eye out for that issue.

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  17. Simply gorgeous blouse! I love all the details and your birdie trim is simply perfect. I wish they would republish this pattern. I'd love to make myself a blouse like this. You did an awesome job!

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    1. This pattern is currently on Etsy for sale!!

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  18. Fabulous blouse and such pretty detailing. And I'm getting the next issue of Cloth for that trim alone. I adore swallows!

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  19. This is great Debi and congrats on getting into Cloth mag! Am I going mad though or have Cloth photoshopped the navy on the collar?!

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    1. I don't think they have. What you might be seeing is my overhead light reflecting on the magazine photo--it was in the evening and I took a photo of the magazine (probably should have scanned it!!)

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  20. You've become such a master at sewing since we first started out! The blouse is a true masterpiece. Congratulations on getting into Cloth. I wish I could see all your garments in person, I feel like if I could inspect them in person I would have SO many questions.

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    1. Awww...thanks Lisette! I love learning and feel like I can learn so much more (like making the insides of the garments prettier, *cough* ) ;-)

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  21. Wow!! This is so incredibly gorgeous! I love how complex this pattern is - seriously, they just DO NOT make them like they used to! And congrats on the blouse being featured in Cloth! That's great! It certainly deserves it. Just... wow...

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  22. Awww! Such pretty detailing! I love it!

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  23. I love this blouse! The details are so great. You did such a wonderful job. It does deserve a place in Cloth! congratulations!

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  24. What a fantastic blouse. It looks great and really suits you.

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  25. wonderful rendition of the pattern and lovely on, and the hair too!

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  26. I saw you in Cloth! :)
    Well done on another beautiful project from McCall's 1940.

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  27. That is gorgeous. The blouse is a breath of fresh air. So pretty (you too!). How fab is it that you knew of a pattern that could best utilise that trim! Fab, and well done getting into Cloth Magazine and showing how varied and creative home sewing can be!

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  28. This is so cute! I also gravitate towards making the colors on the pattern envelope. Can't decide if I lack imagination or if they just always nail my style. ;-)

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  29. This blouse is perfectly stunning! I love the trim and the sleeves are just divine! So very well done, my friend, and your backgrounds are super lovely :)

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  30. Stunning as always! Although, I am curious to see what it would look like with the bow. I'll have to keep a look out for that pattern! (:

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    1. I saw another one of this pattern on Etsy!!

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  31. Wow! Wow! Wow! What an absolutely stunning blouse! All of the tucks and ribbon details are just stunning. Of course Cloth Magazine contacted you - they know talent!

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  32. Your blouse is gorgeous. I love all the pin tucks and gathering.

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  33. Oh my gosh, Debi, I LOVE this. The swallow print trim is absolutely adorable (and your hair looks really lovely!)

    xo

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  34. Wow that is such a gorgeous blouse, well done.

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  35. Hi, I'm a new follower here and also new to vintage knitting and sewing.
    I am trying to make a 1940's wardrobe and have started by ordering Simplicity 3688. I am planning on starting with a skirt. I'm also looking for a blouse pattern in larger sizes, but this is very hard.
    Thank you for being an inspiration. I am certainly going to visit often ; )
    Have a great day.

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    1. Simplicity 3688 is a fantastic pattern! I haven't made the skirt from it but I've made the trousers and blouse!!

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    2. Thank you, I am thinking about starting up again with the skirt. It has been such a long time since I've last sewn something. I used to make a lot myself when the children were smaller. They've grown up now ; )
      Have a great day.

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  36. Wow Debbie that is STUNNING!

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  37. Yummy yummy blouse, Debi -- beautiful choice for that challenge! And congratulations on your magazine appearance. Wish we could get it across the pond.
    D'ellis

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I read each and every comment--thank you so much!

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