Wednesday, May 15, 2013
McCall 3908: The 'First Crepe of Summer' Dress
I feel like I say this about every 1940 McCall make..but I'm REALLY excited to show you my latest project!! I adore this dress to bits! It's McCall 3908, a beautiful pattern that's both fitted and bloused with interesting gathers and pattern lines:
While the pattern envelope doesn't show it, there is a view 'C' which includes short sleeves. That's the version I made.
Can you believe this is my first time ever sewing with wool crepe? I think I am in love. I begged David to pick me up some when he was in NYC at the famous Mood Designer Fabrics store. The funny thing is that wool crepe is so much cheaper in the states than in the UK. Even when you take the exchange rate into account. The only wool crepe I can find in Scotland is approximately £25/meter (which translates to just under $40/meter) whereas they were selling this beautiful wool crepe at Mood for something like $14/yard (or approx £9/yard). Crazy, no? I can't believe that in the land of wool (Scotland) there are so few wool crepe options! Well, I know what I will be packing into my suitcase on my next trip to the States ;-)
Wool crepe is a fantastic fabric for the drape and details found in 1940 dress patterns. This illustration is from the October 1940 McCall Style News booklet:
I decided to forego the pouch pockets for a more streamlined summer look. Like with all my previous 1940 McCall makes, I am itching to sew this pattern up again. I would love to make a winter version in a silk velvet with the pockets!
The pattern was straightforward to make and the wool crepe was a dream to sew with. The bodice has really nice shaping with gathers at the neckline and waistline and a semi circle neckline yoke that is attached with a lapped seam over the gathers. The waist is also attached to the bodice in a lapped seam. This was a little tricky with the sharp v-shaped lines at the waist but I think I managed to get it pretty straight. The pattern is designed to be bloused in the back which translates to a little bit of the bloused look on the sides as well:
The sleeve caps have three darts each. I'm a big sucker for 40s darted sleeve caps. The mid-length and long-sleeve versions also have this detail. Normally the back would close with a thread chain loop and buttons but I decided to insert a zipper in the back. There is also a zipper at the side of the dress (both handpicked).
We took these photos on a lovely pathway that runs alongside the Water of Leith. The sun was just settling down in the sky and the light was beautiful!
I'm so happy with this dress and I just love the red colour (goes with my Ness shoes) and can't wait to wear it all the time!!
I'm curious...have you sewn with wool crepe? Can you find it in your locality?
Labels: The 1940 McCall Project