A few of you asked about how the jacket actually goes together. It is much easier to sew then it looks! First the jacket pattern comes in one major piece--yes, one piece. The scarf is the second piece.
So, there is a back seam (just fold the jacket pattern in half and sew the back seam). After you do that, there are two very small seams for the shoulders. That leaves the big open space at the top of the arms as you can see below (these are just faced and hemmed on the inside--which I must say hemming on lightweight wool is a *dream*):
To make the sleeves stand out, there is a long dart which you can see in this photo:
Then the sleeves just close like any other sleeve. They instruct you to stop sewing about three inches from the bottom and to make a sleeve opening with snaps or buttons. Luckily, I have very small hands so I have no problem fitting the tight sleeve over my hands (and lightweight wool has a bit of a stretch to it AND I hate doing sleeve openings).
Now, for the jacket front. That was really easy. The pattern gives you a jacket front that looks like this:
It's all one piece with the jacket. The pattern comes with the jacket front facing that you just sew to the right side and then turn to the inside and hem and that finishes the jacket front. No complicated lapels or anything!
Next up is the scarf. It's just one long piece of material with a slight curve for the neck. You line the scarf with the skirt material (unless it's wool) by sewing both pieces together and then turning it inside out and slipstitching the opening closed. That's the scarf pretty much done! You just need to then make 3 buttonholes on each side as such:
Now for the buttons. The buttons get sewn directly onto the jacket. One side as such:
One side of the front goes under the other side. Then you bring the other side over it and button it to the buttons on front of the jacket (forgot to mention above there are buttonholes on one side of the jacket as well--meaning that one set of buttons is buttoning two things: 1) jacket front and 2) scarf) like this:
Definitely place the buttons while you are wearing the jacket! That helps to get them in the right position.
My mannequin is not the same size as me--she was a present from a colleague, so she's more for draping then fitting (this jacket doesn't fit her very well when it's closed).
Once you've got the jacket closed then you just drape the scarf over it and attach to the buttons on both sides:
The last big bit of sewing on the jacket are the gussets. The gussets are basically a diamond shaped fabric that goes under the underarm to increase the range of motion for the arm. You basically sew the diamond shaped piece onto the open space left in the underarm area (you don't close the seams completely and that's what gives the open space). Here are the gussets on my jacket:
There is a step-by-step guide for putting in the gussets on this very pattern in the Threads September 2007 issue (number 132)--which you can buy directly from Taunton Press (it's the vintage patterns issue). But the great thing is that you don't see the gussets--so even if they aren't perfect, it's fine!
What I love most is it is an excellently drafted pattern...they really knew how to make clothes fit and have fabulous draping in the 1930's! The pattern was pretty easy to sew with, between the pictures and the words I could figure out what I was supposed to do (which is good because the pattern piece for the jacket is really odd shaped--I am conceptually challenged so I wouldn't have figured it out by just looking at it!)
What do you think? Do you think you might tackle this pattern? Or another pattern from the 30's?